Lemon Thyme Cake

Hello! Tea and Fog is officially back! I have returned from blog vacation refreshed and somewhat blonder! That last part has no bearing on the food but sure is fun.  I tentatively dipped my toe back in the blogging waters with my Palm Springs post a couple weeks ago, but as of today I'm back with more recipes for your enjoyment, starting with a celebratory cake! 

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I was going to call this a Three Lemon Thyme Cake, because I planned for it to include three types of lemons, but my Whole Foods remains reliable in its unreliableness.

Where were the meyer lemons, Whole Foods? Explain yourself. 

So, there are really only two kinds of lemon in this cake, and, am I the only one who doesn't really get that excited about something called a two-lemon cake?

Well, it's ok, because names are misleading, and I assure you this cake is no less wonderful even with only one lemon in the title. Because there are actually about 3 lemons in it! And thyme! And if you try really hard you can even taste the thyme!

Yeah, so I haven't perfected this particular cake yet, but it was too pretty and delicious not to share as is. The cake is lemony and perfectly baked, and the frosting isn't overly sweet, with just a hint of extra lemon, and the thyme (in theory) gives the whole thing a little herby, earthy something extra that just might make you ask, "What's that?" 

Also, those candied lemons. Don't they just look like little sunny jewels? Beyond gorgeous.

But really, to me, the element that really turns this cake into something special is the filling, a lemon curd made with - wait for it- PRESERVED LEMONS! 

I know.

Are you a little appalled? Horrified? Confused? Don't be! Excuse my blog hyperbole, but it's the most amazing lemon curd I've ever tried, seriously. The brininess of the preserved lemon juice cuts through the richness of the curd in just the right way, and sandwiching it between the layers in this cake really gives it a brightness that screams "Spring!"  I never even want to make another version of lemon curd.

Also, let's all take a moment to recognize that I made curd again. And it worked! I can now go on with my life, pretending January's blood orange disaster was all just a bad dream. Double boilers FTW.

So, remember back in February when I mentioned I had another project planned for this year? Well, it's cake! Over the past year I've dreamed up so many different cakes I want to make, and I've decided it's time! And of course, given the nature of cooking and the internet, not one of them is a wholly original idea, but they are still burning holes in my "to make" list and I hope you enjoy them!  

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Lemon Thyme Cake

Cake and frosting adapted from Dorie Greenspan's Party Cake, and Preserved Lemon Curd adapted from Melissa Clark. There are a lot of parts to this cake, but don't be put off by that! The cake, curd, and syrup can all be made ahead, and the buttercream and the candied lemons are really easier than they may sound. My original version only had thyme steeped in the buttermilk for the cake mix, but I really couldn't taste it, so you could chop up some thyme and add to the cake, or do as I've suggested below and add a thyme syrup soak. 

For the cake:

• 1 1/4 cup buttermilk
• 6-8 sprigs fresh thyme
• 2 1/4 cup cake flour
• 1 tbs baking powder
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 4 large egg whites
• 1 1/2 cup sugar
• zest of 1 large lemon
• 1 stick unsalted butter, room temperature
• 1/2 tsp vanilla

1. Preheat your oven to 350 degrees with the rack in middle level. Prep two, 6-inch cake pans (or 4 if you've got that many, or see note). Butter cake pans, line with a 6-inch circle of parchment, and butter the parchment, then flour the pans. Set aside.
2. Bring the buttermilk to a simmer in a saucepan, then crush the thyme sprigs between your hands and add to the milk. Remove from the heat, cover, and let steep for about 20 minutes. Strain out the thyme leaves then set aside to continue cooling.
3. In a bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt and set aside. Whisk the milk and egg whites together in another bowl and set aside. In the bowl of standing mixer or another mixing bowl, add the sugar and zest and rub together for a few minutes, until the sugar is fragrant and feels a bit damp. 
4. Add the butter to the sugar and beat on medium speed for 3 minutes, then beat in the vanilla. Scrape down the bowl, then add 1/3 of the flour mixture, then half the milk mixture, and repeat until all remaining flour is added. Beat well after each addition. Beat for 1-2 more minutes until cake batter is light and well combined.
5. Divide half the batter between the 2 pans and bake for 25 minutes (or all the batter between 4 pans). Test with a toothpick for doneness. If it comes out clean, your done! Transfer pans to a cooling rack and cool cakes in the pans for 5 minutes, then invert cake layers onto the rack to cool completely, flipped back to right side up. Repeat prep process with pans and bake off remaining batter (let the pans cool first!). Once cool, cakes can be wrapped tightly in plastic and stored overnight in the refrigerator or the freezer for 2 months.

Notes:

• You can divide all of the cake batter between two pans to bake and then cut the layers in half to stack. I didn't want to do this so I baked mine off separately. If you do want to only bake 2 layers, bake for about 30-35 minutes.

For the buttercream:

• 1/2 cup sugar
• 2 large egg whites
• 1 1/2 sticks unsalted butter, room temperature
• 1/8 cup fresh lemon juice
• 1/2 tsp vanilla

1. Add the sugar and egg whites to a heat proof mixing bowl set over a pot of simmering water. Whisk continuously, about 3 minutes, until sugar is dissolved and the mixture is shiny and resembles marshmallow cream.
2. Remove from the heat and beat with a whisk attachment on medium speed until cool, about 5 minutes.
3. Switch to the paddle attachment and add the butter, one 1/2 stick at a time, beating each addition until smooth, then beat all for 6 minutes on medium high until very smooth (the mixture may separate at this point but just keep beating, it will come together).
4. Lower speed to medium and gradually beat in the lemon juice and vanilla. Set aside until ready to use, covered with plastic wrap pressed directly on the surface. Don't chill or you won't be able to frost with it!

Notes:

• This makes enough frosting for a 4-layer, 6-inch, semi-naked cake. If you want to fully frost the cake, double the recipe or increase by one half.

For the Preserved Lemon Curd:

• 1/4 cup lemon juice
• 3/4 tsp powdered gelatin
• 1 large egg + 4 egg yolks
• 1/2 + 1/8 cup granulated sugar
• 1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
• 1/8 cup preserved lemon juice (strained from the jar)
• zest of 1 lemon
• 3/8 tsp kosher salt

1. In a small bowl, combine 1/8 cup lemon juice and the gelatin, and set aside to bloom. In a large bowl, lightly beat the egg and the yolks.
2. In a medium bowl, combine the sugar, butter, remaining lemon juice, preserved lemon juice, zest, and salt. Place over a pot of simmering water until very warm to the touch. Remove from the double boiler and whisk into the eggs slowly in a thin stream, whisking constantly. The goal here is to temper the eggs so they don't curdle.
3. Place the bowl over the simmer water again and cook, stirring constantly, until 175 degrees and thickened a bit, about 5-6 minutes.
4. Remove from the heat and stir in the gelatin mixture until fully incorporated, then pour all through a fine mesh strainer into a bowl over an ice bath, and stir until cool. Then chill for at least one hour.

For the Thyme Syrup:

• 1/4 cup water
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 3-4 sprigs fresh thyme

1. In a small saucepan, combine the water and sugar and bring to a boil, add the thyme and then simmer until sugar is completely dissolved. Set aside to cool. Once cool, remove the thyme.

For the Candied Lemon Slices:

• 1 lemon, thinly sliced
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1/2 cup water

1. Bring a pot of water to a boil, then add the lemon slices. Boil for 1 minute, until softened, then drain and add lemons to an ice bath. Drain.
2. In a skillet, bring sugar and water to a boil and simmer until sugar is dissolved, then lower heat and add the lemon slices (with tongs!) in a single layer. Simmer on very low heat until syrup mixture has evaporated and lemons are coated and starting to color just a bit.
3. Remove from skillet with tongs and place on a parchment lined baking sheet to cool. 

To assemble the cake:

1. Level off each of the cake layers. Starting with the first layer, brush on the thyme syrup, then pipe an edge of frosting around the edge, then spoon in the curd to fill. Stack on the next layer and repeat, until you have stacked on your top layer. You may need to pop the layers in the refrigerator to set up a bit between stacking.
2. Frost the sides and top of cake with the remaining buttercream however you wish. Then decorate with candied lemon slices and a few time sprigs, if desired.

Palm Springs & Joshua Tree

What is the best gift to give your fragile, California-living self after two weeks of the best weather Boston has to offer in March? And keep in mind that “best” means 20 degree days and one blizzard that decided to plop down in the middle of my trip, so... 

Four days in the California desert wilting in 95 degree heat should do the trick! Ahem, I mean, not that I’m complaining about my chosen cure but you know the Bay Area really has very nice weather and I might just be a delicate flower now after almost seven(!) years of it.

Truthfully, there was very little wilting, because all hiking was done in the morning and our lovely airbnb had a pool in the backyard that I could just hang out in whenever I pleased.  And then, on our last day as I began to feel like the heat was just a little too much, we took the tram up to the top of Mt. San Jacinto, where I got to then feel a little too chilly in my shorts and sandals as I walked on the snow, so you know, my weekend in the desert was really quite pleasant. 

There may have been some climatological whiplash, but I got to hang out for three days with friends I never get to see, and we drank margaritas and rose by the pool and over-bought food and played endless rounds of Love Letter and generally just had a blast. One night we went out for drinks at the Ace Hotel, where I discovered I was neither cool enough nor drunk enough to really want to hang out there, so we walked ourselves down the street to a wine bar that was blissfully quiet and so dark the bartender gave us flashlights to use to read the menu. Much better.

We went to Joshua Tree, where I was excited to see the NPS continuing its tradition of signs showing the truly gruesome and certain death you will enjoy if you step one foot off the path. Undaunted, we proceeded on our hike and took a million photos of creepy Joshua trees and all the wildflowers bursting out in the superbloom. 

On Monday, as we headed toward the airport and into a truly apocalyptic cloud of grey smog, we learned our flight home had been canceled, and so our return trek turned into an impromptu, six-hour road trip kicked off with a wonderful side trip to LA for lunch. I finally realized my dream of eating the ricotta toast at Sqirl, and also the sorrel pesto bowl and the kabbouleh and the rhubarb berry pie and the rhubarb lemonade and the two jars of jam I brought home to be slowly and carefully rationed. Amen.

And then, as we drove north we passed hillsides absolutely painted with fiery orange poppies exploding in drought-busting joy.  March in California > March in Boston, no question.

The Best Way to Roast A Chicken

This is it! The Roast Chicken Project is DONE. Whew. What a fun 12 months!

I think originally I thought I would explore any and all methods that exist out there for roasting a chicken. I’d spatchcock. I’d roast on cans of beer. I’d even grill! I’d cook at low heat. I’d cook at high heat. I’d baste. I’d brine. I’d dry brine. I’d do any and every recommended technique.  And I certainly tried my fair share of methods, and pulled in some outside help to get it done. But you know, 12 chickens really doesn’t allow for well, more than 12 methods, and once you factor in my desire to get experimental and then falling head over heels for the second method I tried, it think I wound up really trying more like 8 different methods, 9 if you stretch the definition of “different.” Oops. But that’s still a lot! I don’t feel like I failed in my mission by any means. 

Early on found a method i liked, courtesy of Judy Rodgers, and most of these 12 chickens fall under that formula, with only small variations, because other chefs and cooks have discovered the genius of it as well. Just over the last 12 months I’ve given you examples with Zuni Chicken, Moroccan(ish) Roast Chicken, Feta Brined Chicken and Lacquered Roast Chicken. The salt source may have varied, and the roasting temperature, but the core method is the same. I’d even argue that the quick cast iron method is a variation on this process too, just taken to the extreme.

So. (Deep Breath)

(I really didn’t plan to have an answer for this, I really thought the answer was “what works best for you.”Buuuuuuut I have strong opinions now after a whole year of making chicken, so here’s what I’m calling the “Roast Chicken Project Approved Method.”)

What's the best way to prep a chicken?

Season your chicken with a good amount of salt, or a good amount of something salty (feta cheese, preserved lemons, soy sauce). Really, it’s all about the salt content, no matter how you deliver it. A well salted bird is a tasty bird. Then, let it chill, literally. Throw that chicken back in the refrigerator, uncovered, for at least 12 hours. Go about your life and let the salt and cold air work their magic. 

What’s the best way to roast a chicken? 

When you are ready to roast, crank your oven to a minimum of 400 degrees, then plop the chicken in the heat and let it be for about an hour. That’s it. Don’t baste it, don’t flip it, don’t touch it. Take it out, let it rest for 20 minutes, then carve and serve. Eat and be happy, you are a domestic goddess (or god).

Superlatives!

Best roast chicken for a weeknight:

Don’t want to plan ahead? Have minimal time to get dinner on the table? Bittman’s cast iron shortcut is your best choice! Don’t have a cast iron pan? Do the high heat roasting method sans the overnight stay in the refrigerator. The skin won’t be quite as spectacular but your chicken will still be tasty.

Best roast chicken for a weekend project:

Zuni Roast Chicken! This is quite a production when you add in the bread salad and it does take some pre-planning, but the end result is a spectacular meal worth of a Sunday spent in the kitchen.

Best roast chicken for summertime:

Go outside and grill it! The grilled roast chicken was the most fun discovery of this whole project! When it’s 90 degrees outside you want all cooking done as far away from inside your house as possible, right? This chicken has your answer.

Best roast chicken for a complete dinner:

Beer can roast chicken. Sure, the Zuni chicken is technically a complete meal, but the roast veggies at the bottom of the pan in this one make a hearty side as well, and for way less effort.

My favorite roast chickens:

Anything using the dry salt brine and overnight refrigeration with high heat and a relatively quick roasting time. It’s really going to be my go-to method from this point on, it’s so foolproof. I even burned the skin on my last try and still ended up with perfectly done meat, so I’m officially vouching for it. It stands up to finicky ovens and the most basic of seasonings and you can’t go wrong. My second favorite method would be a tie between the two alternative brining sources I used, feta cheese and preserved lemons. In terms of flavor, those two methods really brought something special to the table. And then also chicken in milk is always spectacular. 

That's officially a wrap on the Roast Chicken Project! If you've been along for the duration, thank you for tuning in! Hopefully you've had some fun chicken adventures too! Special thanks to Claire for pinch hitting twice for me, and especially for being brave enough to make what was essentially one giant buffalo wing. 

As I mentioned on Monday, this is it for a few weeks! I'm taking a much deserved and needed hiatus for about 6 weeks, so see you again in March! When I get back, I have fun plans for 2017, including another project! Hint: this one involves a lot more sugar.

In the meantime, enjoy your Super Bowl feasts and Valentines Day baking and Pi Day pies and green St. Patty's Day creations!